Sri Lanka (Ceylon)
- Slavica Jovović
- Jun 10, 2024
- 29 min read
We cooked lunch in a village household in Sigiriya, worked on a tea plantation in Nuwara Eliya, walked among elephants and monkeys, visited Tito’s commemorative plant in the botanical garden, and relaxed on some of the most beautiful beaches in the world.
We arrive in Sri Lanka (officially: the Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka) from Belgrade via two flights: first from Belgrade to Dubai, and then from Dubai to Colombo. A visa is issued upon arrival at the Colombo airport, provided you show proof of having paid a $50 fee in advance.
In Serbia, the first association with Sri Lanka these days is often the drivers in Belgrade's public transportation — men who have come from this distant country to earn a living for their families. The average monthly salary in Sri Lanka is around €200, and at most €300, while the lowest basic wages range between €120 and €130.
The local currency is the rupee. For 100 euros, you get approximately 31,100 Sri Lankan rupees. With a territory of about 62,000 square kilometers and a population of 21 million, Sri Lanka is one of the most densely populated countries in the world - with around 320 people per square kilometer. The country is rich in gemstones, tea, and spices, and boasts lush nature, flora, and fauna.
It's often mistakenly believed that Colombo is the capital city, but it’s not - the official capital of Sri Lanka is Sri Jayawardenepura Kotte, or simply Kotte, which is physically and geographically a suburb of Colombo. That said, it’s fair to say that Colombo serves as the commercial capital, Kotte is the administrative, and Kandy the cultural and historical capital.
The population consists mainly of Sinhalese, the majority ethnic group, and Tamils, as a minority. The two official languages in use are Sinhala and Tamil.
This island, located southeast of India and surrounded on all sides by the Indian Ocean, has changed its name several times throughout history. The current name, Sri Lanka, was given by the Sinhalese people. In Tamil, the island is called Ilantay. The Portuguese, who were the first colonizers to arrive in 1505, named the island Ceylon. Even today, the name Ceylon can still be found on signs and institutions in Sri Lanka - for example, Ceylon Bank, Ceylon tea, and more.
The Portuguese built settlements along the southern coastline, engaged in trade, and conducted business. Later, the Dutch arrived on the western coast of what was then Ceylon, where they established ports and built smaller settlements. The British came in 1820, conquered the entire island, and plundered it. They took whatever they could find, which is why many Sri Lankan artifacts today reside in British museums and private collections.
The name Sri Lanka is sometimes translated as “holy island”, while the official interpretation is “island of splendor.” The written history of Sri Lanka spans over 3,000 years. Thanks to its strategic geographical location and coastal features ideal for port construction, it played a vital role from the time of the ancient Silk Road through World War II.
From the moment you set foot on Sri Lankan soil, it becomes clear that this is not an industrialized country - many things appear frozen in time, as if from decades ago. Yet, the people are smiling, joyful, and kind. Everyone will tell you that they live in harmony with nature, and you can see that everywhere. Elephants roam freely across the island, monkeys can be seen in parks, and even in hotel courtyards. The flora and fauna thrive, with vibrant birds, plants, and towering trees.
Sri Lanka is divided into two regions - a dry northern and a wet southern zone. It experiences two monsoon seasons, but does not have four distinct seasons like in Europe. According to official data, April is the hottest month with an average temperature of 29°C, and January the coolest, at 27°C. However, during our visit in May, the temperatures reached up to 37°C, and it felt even hotter. In some areas, the humidity reaches around 80%. Even with high temperatures, laundry can take several days to dry due to the intense humidity.
Relations between the Sinhalese and Tamils remain extremely tense. It is believed that the Sinhalese were the first to settle in Sri Lanka, arriving from India, followed later by the Tamils. Until just 15 years ago, the country was engaged in a civil war, which is the main reason why tourism began developing only recently. Now, with peace restored, the country has started to focus more seriously on its tourism industry.
One of the lasting effects of British colonial rule is that people in Sri Lanka drive on the left side of the road, and electrical outlets follow British standards, so plug adapters are necessary. Drivers generally maintain moderate speeds and are surprisingly skilled at navigating through crowds, narrow roads, and rough terrain. Coastal areas feature highways and paved streets, but in the inland rural regions, there are still many dirt and sand roads. These are often damaged by heavy monsoon rains, resulting in bumps and potholes. Interestingly, we never saw a single pothole or patch on paved roads, unlike what is commonly seen in our country.
The locals we encountered were familiar with Serbia and spoke at least basic English, although we often had difficulty fully understanding them due to their unusual accent and pronunciation. In the coastal town of Galle, we met a man who spoke Serbian quite well - but he couldn't really explain where or how he had learned the language.
People always greet each other with the traditional phrase “Ayubowan”, which is similar to saying hello or welcome, although its literal meaning is “I wish you a long life.”
In front of houses, as well as restaurants, hotels, and other buildings, you’ll often see large bowl-like pots filled with water and lotus flowers - a symbol of prosperity.
Sri Lanka is considered Asia’s oldest democracy, based on the fact that the world’s first female prime minister was from Sri Lanka - Sirimavo Bandaranaike. She served three terms as Prime Minister, and before her, her husband also held the same position. She is remembered for her meetings with Josip Broz Tito, during the time of former Yugoslavia.
Still, family ties play a significant role in Sri Lankan politics. Former President Gotabaya Rajapaksa also served simultaneously as Minister of Defense and Minister of Finance, while his older brother, Mahinda Rajapaksa, was Prime Minister and, in a previous term, also President, Minister of Defense, and Minister of Technology. Over time and across multiple terms, they rotated through top government roles, maintaining control over the country’s leadership.
In 2022, a shift occurred, and Sri Lanka elected a new president, Ranil Wickremesinghe, and a new prime minister, Dinesh Gunawardena.
Relations with India are hot-and-cold, as India is known to interfere in Sri Lanka’s internal affairs, which many Sri Lankans strongly resent. Their closest ally is the Maldives - the two island nations share geographic proximity, joint tourism development projects, and strong economic ties. Fifty percent of Maldives’ total exports go to Sri Lanka, and the Maldivian military receives its training in Sri Lanka.
Sri Lanka also maintains stronger and more stable relations with Pakistan than with India. For travel and vacation, Indonesia and Singapore are popular destinations among Sri Lankans, mainly because no visa is required.
Various modes of transportation are available to both locals and tourists in Sri Lanka - and we tried them all. First, we rode something resembling a carriage, but it was actually an ox cart known as a “zebu cart,” named after the Zebu breed of cattle that pulls it. Then, there was a small tractor-like vehicle, similar to what we would call a motor tiller, pulling an open trailer for passengers - locally known as a “tak-tak.”
And finally, the well-known tuk-tuk taxi. Our local guide, Jagath (Đaga) Kumara, warned us in advance to negotiate the price beforehand, and to never pay more than 500 rupees per ride. He was absolutely right - drivers would initially ask for several thousand, but as soon as you start walking away, they’ll run after you and ask, “Okay, how much will you give?” You say 500 rupees, they agree, and off you go. There are no taximeters.
They also have buses - incredibly colorful, decorated in all imaginable bright colors and patterns. One of the more scenic options is the train, which feels like stepping back in time - no air conditioning, just open windows and ceiling fans.
This train ride is a special attraction for tourists, and anyone visiting Sri Lanka simply must experience it. People take photos in every imaginable way - sometimes even dangerously, hanging out of the train in a relaxed pose or leaning far outside the doors.
One of the most famous sights related to the railway is the Nine Arches Bridge, located near the town of Ella. Tourists gather there in large groups, waiting for the train to pass so they can capture the perfect photo. However, it sometimes happens that visitors wait for hours, and the train never arrives - it may have stopped somewhere due to a breakdown. According to some travel statistics, this bridge is one of the most photographed locations in the world.
In more urban towns and cities, there are plenty of cars on the roads - mostly modern and well-maintained. Many are hybrid vehicles, most commonly Toyotas and Suzukis. Fuel costs about €1.30 per liter, whether it’s diesel or gasoline. Still, motorbikes, mopeds, and bicycles are much more common on the streets.
Accommodation, whether in camps or hotels, is generally good - clean and decent. However, it's not unusual to see lizards walking on the walls inside your room. On the windows and terrace doors, there are usually signs warning guests to watch out for monkeys. The monkeys are not aggressive, but they are everywhere. They might snatch small items or snacks, so it’s best to keep things secured.
It’s also possible to share the swimming pool with the occasional small frog. After a day or two, you get used to it - nature is everywhere, thriving in every corner, and there’s no way to keep it out entirely.
Guests and tourists are strongly advised not to drink tap water, as it can cause stomach problems. While locals in some areas do drink it, in others it’s not even used for washing food. In any type of accommodation, hosts will typically provide you with a few bottles of water for free. A small 0.5-liter bottle of water costs around 90 rupees in stores.
Other groceries are significantly cheaper than in our country. A typical meal in a restaurant costs between 6 and 10 euros. Wherever you go, it’s common to be served a full plate of sliced fruit as a starter - pineapple, watermelon, papaya, various citrus fruits, and even some exotic varieties we saw for the first time.
Their food is extremely spicy - not just mildly spicy by our standards, but really, really hot. Those who aren't used to spicy food might find it hard to eat. When ordering meals, it’s essential to ask for no spice, otherwise - as I learned the hard way - it can be quite a challenge. That’s how we discovered that the "fire in the throat" caused by spicy food can be soothed by a glass of yogurt mixed with honey.
Interestingly, locals consume very little dairy. In shops, you can find small yogurt containers (80–100 ml) and long-life milk. All dairy and confectionery products like chocolate are kept in refrigerators, due to the high temperatures. Store shelves contain fewer products, but there are a lot more refrigerators than we're used to.
When visiting stores - whether supermarkets or smaller shops - it’s quite common to see employees eating their meals at the counter or sitting anywhere in the shop with a plate of food during their break. If a customer walks in, they simply put their meal aside, smile, and serve you without hesitation.
Alcohol is sold only in specialized smaller stores, not in regular supermarkets or food-and-drink shops. The explanation we got was rather vague - supposedly, it's to prevent crowds. Their best-known alcoholic products include rice brandy and ginger beer.
Markets are diverse and colorful, with sections full of fruits and vegetables, spices, and textile goods. Within the clothing stalls, there are tailors and seamstresses, so if something doesn’t fit quite right - too big, too small, or if you don’t like a detail on a shirt or any garment - they’ll offer to alter it on the spot or sew you a new one that fits perfectly.
While waiting for customers, vendors at the market often play a popular local board game called Carrom.
Education is compulsory. There is organized transportation for children to schools, no matter where they live, covering all possible locations. There are very serious penalties for parents who do not send their children to school, ranging from heavy fines to even imprisonment. Children attend school and take education very seriously. In schools, as well as at universities, students wear white uniforms. Boys wear shirts and trousers, while girls wear dresses or skirts and shirts. Interestingly, girls usually wear ties and boys wear badges. All educational institutions, from kindergartens to colleges, have spacious sports fields and stadiums. Children and young people train in various sports from athletics to tennis. Additionally, generally everyone plays cricket.
The Sinhalese are Buddhists, making up about 70 percent of Sri Lanka's population. About 20 percent are followers of Islam - Muslims, and around 7 percent are Christians. The remaining 3 percent belong to smaller religious groups.
They honor Siddhartha Gautama as the founder of Buddhism. He was born in the area of present-day Nepal, and the core of his teaching was mastering the mind. Buddhist teachings are based on the Four Noble Truths: life is suffering, suffering is caused by desires, life is a constant cycle of birth and death, and the cessation of this cycle is achieved by following the Noble Eightfold Path - understanding these truths, sincere reflection, right speech, right action, effort, mindfulness, concentration, and living in a proper environment.
Buddhists believe in continuous rebirth and death. The concept of karma is a cosmic law - what you do comes back to you. If you have been a good person in life, you will have the chance to be reincarnated as a human in a good family. If you have been bad, you will be born in the form of a worm. According to Buddhism, during our life we should constantly strive for nirvana, a complete spiritual peace, where our spirit no longer passes through birth and death, but remains in a state of nirvana in one place - neither living nor being born, nor dying.
Pinawala - The Elephant Orphanage was the first location we visited. This orphanage was established by the government in the 1970s with the idea of organizing care for baby elephants who get lost or left alone in the wild. There are about 70 elephants in this area that were brought here when they were just born or very young. They are now adults. Among them is a female elephant with twins. The hosts proudly show the baby elephants and emphasize that this is the first time in 100 years that elephant twins were born in Sri Lanka.
Nearby this orphanage, there is a preserved and functional manufactory - a small factory that produces paper from elephant dung. Since elephants eat vegetation, their dung contains a significant amount of fiber, which is isolated during the technological processes to produce paper sheets. In a small workshop within the facility, notebooks, journals, and other souvenirs are made from this paper and sold to tourists.
Within the Minneriya National Park, deep in the jungle, visitors and tourists ride jeeps. Elephants are everywhere, wandering freely or just standing around. Data shows there are about 700 elephants here. There are many small monkeys - long-tailed macaques. Our hosts assured us that this area has many types of animals - deer, leopards, bison, sloths, bears, jackals - and that we would see them during the ride. However, the large number of tourist groups and the huge number of jeeps on the very poor sandy and dirt roads make so much noise that the animals are probably fleeing from the curious humans. We did not see them. Besides elephants and monkeys, various bird species can be seen, including peacocks.
The archaeological site on the Sigiriya rock is under UNESCO protection. At the top of the rock, the remains of the ancient royal palace are preserved, as well as two palaces - a summer and a winter one - and many murals. There are also remains of four pools, and the king had a throne where he would sit and watch 500 women bathe in these pools. Earlier, because of some additional structures, the rock had the appearance of a lion, which is why it was called the Lion Rock. It had paws and a head. The head is no longer there.
Around the rock itself, there are remnants of a moat - a canal where crocodiles were kept as a form of protection. The stairs that lead up the rock are mostly made of white marble, which shines in the moonlight. Back then, there was no other lighting.
The story of the kingdom from which these archaeological sites originate dates back to the fifth century, when Dutsen was the ruler of Sri Lanka. He had two sons, Kashana and Magelana. Kashana, the elder, was the son of the king and a concubine, while Magelana was the son of the king and the queen, and the throne was supposed to belong to him. Kashana did not like this, so he decided to kill his father - he tied him to the rocks and left him to die. He took over the power and declared himself king. However, fearing his brother, in the year 473 he built his new kingdom on the Sigiriya rock. He built his temple and ruled for 24 years. During that time, his brother had fled to India, recovering from their father’s death and building his army. After 24 years, the younger brother attacked Sigiriya to seize the throne. The battle lasted long, and when Kashana realized he was losing, he slit his own throat, thus ending his reign. The younger brother then ascended the throne.
During our stay in the village of Sigiriya, we had the opportunity to visit a local household. As a sign of welcome, the hostess struck a drum upon our arrival. Everyone walks barefoot inside and around the house. She allowed us to participate in preparing lunch. The food is cooked in clay pots. They always prepare a larger variety of vegetable and herb dishes, consuming less meat or fish. Bread is minimal, similar to a tortilla but much smaller in size. Here we learned how to use all parts of the coconut. First, the coconut that is also found in our stores, with an exceptionally hard shell, from which coconut flour is made; the fibers from the coconut shell are used to make ropes and cords, and the remaining waste is used as compost for gardens. The second type is the royal coconut, which is mostly served as a welcome drink to tourists due to its exotic juice. It has a much softer shell, yellow in color, and coconut oil is made from this type.
With the hostess, we made an interesting sauce from coconut, white and black onions, hot chili peppers, lime juice, salt, and pepper. She showed us how palm fronds are used to make roofing elements, like the roof on her house where she hosted us.
We also helped with the rice husking process. The rice is poured into a deep wooden container, like a jar or a small barrel, and then pounded with a wooden stick before being sifted. She explained that food should be eaten with fingers to preserve the authentic taste, but she still served us with cutlery. She said that the flavour is lost if utensils come between the food and the eater.
Here we also learned how mosquitoes are driven away using fire, or rather smoke. They don’t spray mosquitoes, but in many places, wherever you go, they light small fires made of piles of leaves, coconut shells, and wood. The smoke that is produced keeps the mosquitoes away. There are countless such fires everywhere you look. We were constantly worried that a fire might start, but they skillfully control these fires.
In every house, and even around any accommodation, there are usually 7 to 8 or more dogs. They are not annoying, don’t bother people, and don’t beg for food. There are no cats; we only saw a cat later in Kandy in a restaurant. The dogs serve to bark at elephants and redirect them if they come close, or at monkeys to keep them at a distance. These small packs of dogs are even present in hotels on the beaches - literally everywhere.
There are no trash bins or containers because of the monkeys. There are procedures and rules about where and how waste is stored and when it is taken away.
Catching the sunrise at Pidurangala Rock is a big challenge for tourists. This rock was formed by a volcanic eruption. It once served as a refuge for numerous monks. Today, it is a popular spot to “catch” the sunrise. People wake up at 4 a.m. and literally run up the rock. The climb is very demanding; the path is only partially developed, and a significant part requires crawling through narrow crevices and passages to reach the top. And when you think so early in the morning that you must be the only crazy one, you find dozens of people already sitting at the summit facing east. There are also little monkeys lurking, trying to snatch something from the newcomers.
Kandy is the second largest city in Sri Lanka. Our first encounter with this city was surprising. In very high temperatures, people were walking through the central city streets with umbrellas, or running. Soon, we understood the reason behind this surprising sight. The tree canopies were full of birds, whose chirping created a deafening noise. Anyone who wanted to walk calmly and avoid the risk of birds soiling them carried umbrellas, while the few without umbrellas hurried to run through quickly.
During one of our outings in Kandy, we found a pub serving non-spicy food, where Frank Sinatra’s music was playing softly in the background. This city is home to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, a theatre, a botanical garden, a prison, and - like in every town - a cricket stadium.
There is a legend connected to the prison about the most famous Sri Lankan criminal of all time. His name was Marua Silva. He was executed by hanging. He was involved in alcohol smuggling and was also convicted of murder. His wife worked with him, and the locals called them the "local Bonnie and Clyde." This happened in the 1970s. Silva was frequently arrested but also often escaped from prison. When his daughter was born, he escaped to see her and then returned to prison. His execution was the last death penalty carried out in Sri Lanka, even though it still remains a legal possibility.
In Kandy, it is possible to visit the local theater and watch a performance that showcases their culture. Dancers perform various traditional dances, dressed in lavish costumes and colors, accompanied by drummers, as well as a frightening fire act. When we asked about the dangers of the fire for performers who have no protection, they explained that children start training for this at the age of two, so over years of practice their skin becomes more resistant to heat and they do not get burned during the performance.
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth in Kandy is considered one of the most important sites for all Buddhists, not just the residents of Sri Lanka. This temple houses Buddha’s tooth, specifically his left canine. It is believed that a princess smuggled it by tying it to a lock of her hair. After Buddha’s death at an advanced age, he was cremated, and this tooth was removed and preserved. The tooth traveled all over Sri Lanka because of the belief that a ruler must carry it with them, and whoever possesses Buddha’s tooth will be the ruler of Sri Lanka. At one point, the tooth was in Polonnaruwa until the temple where it was kept was destroyed. Eventually, Buddha’s tooth came to rest in Kandy, where a temple was built in its honor.
The temple has been attacked twice: the first time by terrorists who wanted to steal the tooth, and the second time by the Tamil Tigers. The Tamils are Hindus. They bombed the temple, destroying the front part, but the Sacred Tooth remained intact.
Every August, the Festival of the Sacred Tooth takes place, when decorated elephants, dancers, performers, and music parade through the city. For this occasion, a replica of Buddha’s tooth is carried around the city. The actual tooth is displayed only once every ten years.
At the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, ceremonies honoring the tooth are held three times a day. We attended one of these ceremonies. To even enter the temple grounds, security measures are very strict - police check everyone who enters. Additionally, visitors must be properly dressed: both men and women must have their shoulders and knees covered, meaning long sleeves and long pants or skirts for women. You also must remove your shoes. It is customary to remove footwear when entering Buddhist temples. At some entrances, there are attendants with small booths or shelves where you can leave your shoes for safekeeping. During the ceremonies, flowers are brought and placed in front of Buddha statues, as flowers symbolize life for Buddhists.
The beginning of each of these ceremonies is announced by drummers or small “orchestras” consisting of several drummers and musicians playing local instruments similar to flutes. There are no spoken texts or prayers; everyone is expected to have their own prayer quietly in their mind and heart.
The essence of the grand ceremonies at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth is to pass through the room where Buddha’s tooth is kept in a small box resembling a chest, leave some money as a donation, make a wish, look at the box, and then exit. Everything happens very quickly, giving you just a few seconds for this.
Once a week, on Wednesdays, a tooth-washing ceremony is held. The water used then becomes holy water, which is given to devotees. In an outer part of the temple’s courtyard, visitors and worshippers can light small “lamps,” which are containers filled with coconut oil. It is believed that you should make a wish, light the lamp, and let it burn so that the wish will come true.
As a symbol of Buddhism, there are numerous stupas built throughout Sri Lanka. These are hemispherical, round, white structures. According to the contents inside, there are three types of stupas: stupas containing Buddha’s bodily relics, such as teeth, bones, and similar; stupas with associative relics, items connected to Buddha, such as his belt or the bowl he ate from; and commemorative stupas. The items kept inside stupas are not accessible, as everything is sealed within the structure. Buddha’s belt is kept in a stupa in Polonnaruwa, which is 62 meters tall. The largest stupa is in Anuradhapura - 130 meters tall-built in the fourth century. It was the third largest monument in the world, after the Pyramid of Giza. The oldest stupa is 120 meters tall and about two thousand years old. There used to be many small stupas scattered throughout the jungle, but treasure hunters destroyed and looted them. All stupas in Sri Lanka are round, except for one stepped stupa built at the time as a symbol of good relations with Cambodia.
Near Kandy is the Mountain Sri Pada, also known as Adam’s Peak, 2,243 meters high. The path leading to the summit is well-maintained and has around 6,000 steps. For all inhabitants, regardless of their religion, this mountain - or rather the peak-holds great spiritual significance. It is believed that Adam first set foot here when he came down to Earth. This place is literally a sanctuary for all people.
At the very top, there is a temple. People of all ages come here - young and old, sick and troubled, as well as curious visitors. For tourists and hikers, guides are available, and organized climbs usually take place at night so that climbers can reach the summit by dawn. Along the trail, there are many resting spots, where refreshments and souvenirs can be purchased. For those less determined, there is a much lower mountain called Little Adam’s Peak. From this peak, the braver ones can descend by zip-line.
Peradeniya Botanical Garden is considered the most beautiful botanical garden in Sri Lanka. Here, you can see thousands of species of native tropical plants, banyan trees, royal palms, hanging bridges, spices, rare plant specimens, numerous bird species, and entire flocks of bats. Particularly interesting are the orchid house, the spice garden, the flower garden, rows of palm trees, and houseplants. Some of my companions couldn’t resist climbing a few challenging trees. The garden also still has a tree planted by Josip Broz Tito during his visit to Sri Lanka in 1959.
Tea Plantations are a must-see for tourists, visitors, and school excursions. Every inch of land in some parts of Sri Lanka, especially in the Nuwara Eliya region, is covered with tea. The plantations include entire facilities for storage, drying, further processing, and packaging of various types of tea. Depending on the harvest, there are golden, silver, white, black, and green teas.
We visited the Damro Tea Plantation. This estate has 1,200 acres planted with tea. They employ 1,000 workers, 600 of whom are tea pickers. Tea bushes live for 50 years and are pruned every five years. During harvesting, only two leaves and a small shoot of undeveloped leaves at the top of the branch are picked. Harvesting happens all year round, every day, just at different locations. When one area is harvested, they return to it after a week.
There are two varieties of tea bushes: green, from which green and black teas are made - this plantation produces three tons of these teas daily; and red, from which golden, silver, and white teas are made - only 10 kilograms of these teas are produced monthly at this plantation.
We couldn't resist the challenge to spend some time with the workers on the plantations -specifically, one day during the tea harvest. Everyone receives large red baskets that are tied to a cap and carried on the back. Tea is picked according to the supervisor's instructions and thrown into the basket over the head. It's not easy at all - the heat is intense, and the plantations are often on steep hillsides. Sometimes the weather suddenly changes during the day and it starts to rain.
The daily quota is to pick 18 kilograms. The daily wage is 1,700 rupees. If they pick more, they receive a bonus. Tea picking is done exclusively by women. Employers provide the pickers with the option of accommodation within their estate.
From picking to packaging, the process takes one day. Green and black tea are dried in facilities where the machines are powered by wood-fired boilers. Other teas are dried in the sun.
Currently, there are about 600 tea factories in Sri Lanka. By law, 80% of production must be sold on the Colombo exchange. Large companies that have a brand but no production buy the tea. They add various combinations or flavors, resulting in teas with mango, lime, and similar tastes. Then they export all quantities under their own name. The entire procedure is state-controlled.
An interesting fact is that, for example, from the harvested amount to the final product, after drying, the weight of black tea is reduced five times, green tea seven times, and white tea even ten times.
Scenes of fishermen standing on poles have been seen on postcards or in movies. The story dates back to long ago when a group of young men tried to earn money by fishing. They climbed onto the wreck of an old ship so no one would disturb them, and at some point, they realized they could stick their poles wherever they liked and fish peacefully without scaring the fish away.
This method of fishing has survived to this day, but now it is more of a tourist attraction than a way to catch a significant amount of fish. If you want to photograph them, you have to pay 500 rupees, and if you want to take a picture with them or try fishing by climbing onto the pole yourself, then you pay 1,000 rupees.
Polonnaruwa was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982. It served as the second capital of Sri Lanka in the 12th century. The first capital was Anuradhapura, which was the capital from the 6th century BCE until 1500 CE, when it was destroyed by invading Indians. After that, Polonnaruwa became the capital and held that status for 200 years, until it too was destroyed by the Indians.
Archaeological finds such as tools and surgical instruments indicate that even in those ancient times, surgeons and dentists existed here. During the 200 years of Polonnaruwa’s prominence, 21 kings ruled the city, but only three were significant: the first ruled for 55 years, starting at age 17; the second for 33 years; and the third for 9 years.
The famous seven-story palace was built by the king who ruled for 33 years. Of this palace, only three stories remain today, as they were constructed from stone, while the upper floors were made of wood and were destroyed when the Indians burned the palace in the 13th century.
Among the protected archaeological remains are palaces, special halls for receptions and meetings, temples, stupas, parks, fountains, and irrigation lakes. The architecture preserved here is typical of Sri Lanka.
Outside the city walls, a royal bathing pool is also preserved, where the king would sit on a pedestal in the center of the pool while numerous women splashed water around him.
Within the protected complex is a massive stone inscription weighing 25 tons and measuring 8 meters long, containing laws written in 4,300 characters. This stone was transported by elephants for 100 kilometers to the place where it now stands.
At the beginning of literacy development, people wrote on square palm leaves coated with wax to preserve them. Because of this, their letters were rounded, as they tried to write without tearing the leaves. They wrote and read from left to right, just like we do.
A must-visit location is the Dambulla Buddhist temples, which are also protected by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. It is the largest preserved complex of five cave temples and is considered an important religious site by Buddhists. Each of these temples dates back to different periods of kings who ruled Sri Lanka. The oldest temple is 2,100 years old.
In the first temple, the dominant feature is a reclining Buddha statue, depicted as deceased, measuring 14 meters long and carved from a single piece of stone. The walls are painted, with some murals being 200 years old and others even 300 years old. The colors of the paintings are very vivid and well preserved.
About 100 monks live within the complex. They can only be seen during ceremonies. They walk barefoot, dressed in orange robes. The ceremonies are held without visitors present. When a ceremony takes place, the temple is closed, and no one-neither locals nor Buddhist devotees - is allowed inside. Everyone must leave outside. The ceremony lasts about 15 minutes, during which offerings and gifts are presented to Buddha.
Monks spend their lives meditating, studying Buddhism, teaching young monks, and working in schools. They primarily teach children about Buddhism, and less frequently other subjects if they are educated in those areas, such as languages. Sometimes, monks serve as school principals.
Sri Lanka is rich in precious stones, and there are many mines where they are extracted. Most of the mines are located in the jungle. It is customary that when a new deposit is discovered, a ceremony is held to ask for God’s blessing before mining begins. We visited one such mine, and it was not what we expected or had imagined a mine to be like. These mines are like wells—holes in the ground—where at most two people can enter, lowering themselves by rope. Using a pulley system, they lift material, or stones, in buckets.
For moonstone deposits (blue, yellow, and white), mining occurs at depths of 20 to 100 meters. For sapphire deposits, the required depth is 80 to 400 meters. Once a mine is excavated, it can last for 8 to 9 years before mining moves to a new location. Often, water collects in these shafts, so a lot of effort is spent pumping it out. Due to humidity, layers of fern branches are placed on the mine walls to control moisture. The depth is illuminated only by candles, which also serve as detectors for toxic gases. After the initial excavation at the required depth, the mine is deepened by another five meters every year.
There are about 50 types of precious and semi-precious stones found in Sri Lanka. These include sapphires - pink, orange, yellow, white, and star sapphires - as well as rubies, alexandrites, aquamarines, amethysts, and moonstones. Moonstone is unique to Sri Lanka; it is the only natural source of moonstone in the entire world. The most popular and valuable sapphire globally is the medium blue sapphire from Sri Lanka.
Simply saying the beaches are beautiful doesn’t do them justice. They are much more than that. They aren’t commercialized like the well-known modern resorts we're used to. Due to monsoon rains, storms, wind, and sand, there aren’t many loungers available. Mostly, loungers are kept aside, and you can use them free of charge. Since these are ocean coasts, the waves are very high, and swimming is often prohibited - marked by a red flag.
We had the chance to relax on some of the world’s most beautiful beaches in Mirissa, as well as Unawatuna beach in the town of Galle. There are no lifeguards or beach attendants. At one hotel, when we arrived, they warned us that swimming was not recommended because there had been several deaths in the past few days, but everyone is responsible for themselves.
On the other hand, there are many surfing schools and instructors. At the entrances of hotels facing the beach, there is always a basin with water where you must wash your feet and sandals to avoid bringing sand into the hotel. If you try to skip this, some staff will chase you down.
In the coastal towns, there are many Russian companies, with signs and advertisements in Russian. Most of these are spa centers, massage salons, and small restaurants. The majority of tourists we encountered were from nearby Asian countries, with only a smaller number coming from Europe and Western countries.
It’s worth visiting the silk house museum, which, by our standards, is like a shopping mall. Besides having the opportunity to buy something, you can also take photos in their national costumes and watch a short film about the history of silk and the methods of producing and raising silkworms.
The wood museum displays a wide variety of products, from tiny wooden souvenirs like small elephant figurines to very large and bulky pieces of furniture.
The town of Galle remains a trace of Dutch colonization in Sri Lanka. There, you can find the national cricket ground, which has been declared the most beautiful cricket field in the world because it is located between the fort and the ocean. There is also a mosque, an Anglican church, and many small shops and narrow streets, with electric cables hanging overhead.
Tsunami Memorial Museum
The Tsunami Museum is housed in a very modest one-story building. It was built and designed thanks to a donation from Japan. Here, photographs and footage documenting the devastating 2004 tsunami are preserved. In the courtyard, there is one of the train carriages that was overturned by the tsunami’s impact, where 1,700 people died and only 15 passengers survived. After the earthquake near Indonesia, which measured 9.2 on the Richter scale, the tsunami reached Sri Lanka in two hours and penetrated 2.5 kilometers inland, leaving destruction in its wake.
Interestingly, animals did not perish in the tsunami because just before the disaster, all animals retreated deeper into the island’s interior. It is explained by the fact that animals can hear up to 100 kHz while humans only hear up to 20 kHz. Thus, they heard and felt the earthquake and escaped.
It is believed that around 35,000 people died, although these are not complete figures. At that time, Sri Lanka was in the midst of a civil war, so data about casualties in the Tamil-controlled areas - which were also affected by the tsunami - is missing. Many fishermen died, leaving a long-lasting problem of who would fish afterward. Another 20,000 people were displaced. Right before the tsunami struck, the water had receded about a kilometer, and people rushed to the beaches to collect corals and see what was left, which caused so many deaths. Interestingly, Buddha statues in the affected areas were not damaged. The wave that hit Sri Lanka dragged a huge amount of mud from the seabed, so the bodies were completely blackened, and cholera began spreading quickly. There was no time for cremations, so victims were buried in mass graves. Many orphans remained. People lost relatives and friends. Children were traumatized and afraid to look at the ocean. Due to destroyed infrastructure, it was difficult to deliver aid.
The museum still organizes psychological support for survivors, those who lost loved ones, and their descendants - training them on how to understand and help their closest family members living with trauma.
Turtle Farm
The turtle farm also serves as a rescue center for turtles. One section is dedicated to nesting turtle eggs, while another area is used to care for and treat turtles that are injured or ill. Most often, these illnesses are skin diseases caused by allergies to nylon and plastic that end up in the waters. Fishing nets are also made from nylon. In these protected conditions, about 80% of the young turtles that hatch survive, whereas in the wild, survival rates are very low, only up to 20%. When they grow enough, the turtles are released into the ocean. Visitors who happen to be there can pay to participate in such a release mission. Male turtles have longer tails, which distinguishes them from females. Some turtles are rescued with injuries or missing flippers because of shark attacks. Those that are deemed unable to survive in the wild remain on the farm permanently.
A special attention is given to the species Eretmochelys imbricata, commonly known as the hawksbill turtle. Poachers hunt them for the value and beauty of their shells, which are used to make frames for glasses and other fashion accessories. This species is critically endangered and at great risk of extinction.
Albino turtles are a rare phenomenon. When rescued, albino turtles are not released back into the wild due to poachers. An albino turtle on the black market costs around 45,000 euros.
Jagath Nanda Kumara
Loves Serbian Tourists
Our local host and guide for touring Sri Lanka, Jagath Nanda Kumara, says he is especially delighted by and loves tourists from Serbia because they show great interest in getting to know the nature and culture of Sri Lanka. Jagath hasn’t always worked in tourism.
“I used to be a farmer, and then in search of work, I went to Saudi Arabia, where I worked as a truck driver for several years. I returned to Sri Lanka in 2009 and joined the agency Jetwin Travels - that was my first job in tourism.”
Although he took an interesting path from agriculture to tourism, he says he always had a desire to work with tourists. Even as a boy, he watched groups of tourists touring his town.
“I first met the Jungle Tribe group in 2016, when I already had another tourism job through the agency Sanki Leisure. I love working with tourists from Serbia. I have stayed in contact with many of them and through communication, we develop friendships.
”So far, he hasn’t had the chance to visit our country.“I would love to visit Serbia. Especially, I would love to see my Serbian friends.”
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